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MY RUSSIAN EXPERIENCE By: Linda Pereira ARRIVAL : Arriving in Moscow was not a pleasant experience I would venture to say. Having deposited so much fantasy in its beauty and its history I was completely taken aback by its cold, disorganized, confusing and unwelcoming airport. I have always thought that the worst thing about traveling is the airport experience – but Moscow confirmed it. Under siege by the extreme winter, the airport was an anthill of activity. The total confusion and the level of energy required to orient oneself compounded by the fact that finding an English-speaking employee (or any other language in fact except German and Russian) is like searching for a needle in a haystack. Then of course you still have the adventure of finding a taxi-driver who will charge you a fair price compounded by the snow and freezing cold. The hotel experience was no more enjoyable and had I not been to Moscow before and stayed in fabulous hotels I would surely not be keen to return. The staff were cold and unfriendly. You cannot of course use credit cards anywhere and breakfast was not included. Every time I ordered or ate anything on the premises it had to be paid for immediately which makes for a very tedious time. The transfer to the domestic airport the next day continued to keep up this tone with the taxi driver brutally overcharging me – and by the way nobody helps you with luggage least of all the taxi drivers!! THE SOCHI EXPERIENCE Then suddenly I was flying towards Sochi and as I looked down on descent approach all was forgiven. The region is located on the black sea nestling against the water’s edge and flanked by snow-capped mountains – a favourite skiing resort for the last two Russian presidents. Far from the cold sleet, snow and freezing unfriendliness of Moscow the green welcoming city of Sochi was a sight for sore eyes. The airport itself is small and efficient obviously accustomed to handling tourists and boasting its past experience when Sochi was truly the Russian Riviera and the whole of the rest of the country, as well as neighbouring countries, zoomed down into this region for the long-awaited vacation time. Sochi’s roots are ancient. It is even thought that some Greek myths are based here. According to Greek myth, Fischt» , a mountain protecting Sochi, is the «desert cliff at the back of beyond» on which Prometheus was chained and tortured. Sochi became part of Russia at the end of the Caucasian War. Officially founded in 1898, Sochi was always destined to be a resort area. Its fate was sealed when salurious sulphuretted hydrogen springs were discovered throughout the area. From then on it was developed as a health resort and stands today as the best in Russia. The first hotel complex, Kavkaz Riviera, opened in 1909. As the area became popular before the revolution many wealthy people from St. Petersburg and Moscow flocked here and built splendid summer homes. Several still stand and are considered to be excellent examples of Russia’s Art Nouveau. However, it wasn't until Stalin decided to build the Workers’ vacation paradise here in the 40s and 50s that Sochi really started to come into its own. Palatial sanatoriums, spas, and resorts rose from the swamps by the hundreds. Today there are over 250 stretching along the shores and nestling in the mountains. And several new ones are under construction, or already opened, including a four star Radisson. In the past Sochi would host up to 6 million visitors annually. People from all over the Soviet Union and Europe would come to meet and party on the beaches and in the hotels. SOCHI – MORE THAN JUST A PRETTY FACE Today with the demise of communism the area is quieter but over the last couple of years the wealthy playboys and noveau riche of Russia are rediscovering the better seaside resorts and beautiful countryside., and new investments are being made to improve our town and services. The main beaches are full of young people and the new emerging jet-set. New restaurants and small shops are popping up along the beach and providing everything one could possibly imagine. Known as the Russian Riviera the black sand and pebble beaches stretch over 20 miles along the Black Sea coast. It is the longest city not only in Russia but also on the whole continent. We are located on the same latitude as Toronto, Nice, and the Gobi Dessert, just north of the border with Georgia. Sochi is almost all mountains, forest, and beach. More than 80% of the territory is part of a national park or the Caucasian State Biosphere Reserve. The location abounds in historical and architectural monuments, unique flora and fauna, magnificent landscapes, mysterious canyons and caves, noisy waterfalls and parks. Sochi is an excellent place to experience Russian culture up close. Of course the major attraction to Sochi is natural beauty. Pristine rivers and streams run out of the forest covered foothills of the Caucasus. The beaches stretch as far as the eye can see. A must-see is the city beach, reminiscent of California's Venice Beach. A short stroll from the beach, over the Sochi River, is the Park Riviera. Located in Sochi's most popular park are art galleries, cafes, games, and amusement rides. Russian astronauts and celebrities have planted magnolia trees here. Statues and pool are scattered around the well-maintained grounds. Matsesta Spa is a palatial, old sulfur spa. Matsesta's name means "fire water" and refers to the hot sulfur springs that have been known here since ancient times About 5 miles further down the road from Matsesta are located the Orliniye (eagle) Cliffs and Agura Waterfalls. The cliffs and ravine of the River Agura are an impressive sight. The river tumbles over three falls, the tallest being 90 feet. The Dendrary Botanical Garden extends over 30 acres with more than 1,600 trees and bushes from all around the world. Not far from Dendrary is the Friendship Park with its Trees of Friendship and museum. This is atruly a must-do stop for everyone. A fabulous symbol of all that people can be it is truly an honour to stand here and soak up the peace and beauty symbolized by this place. Since 1940 when the Arctic explorer O.Y. Shmidt made the first graft, many famous people and world leaders and representatives from over 167 countries have come here to graft a branch onto one of the trees of friendship. An adjacent museum exhibits letters and souvenirs sent here from around the world extending peoples’ wishes of good will. I took time to sign the guest book and speak to the curator. The experience is one I will cherish. If you have a car you should strongly consider a ride up to Krasnaya Polyana. It is about an hour into the mountains and is where the ski slopes are located. The road leading to it follows a roaring mountain river. The road twists along cliffs and peers over the ravine. It is a beautiful thrill. On the way to Krasnaya Polyana you can stop by the largest trout farm in Russia. From here various types of rainbow trout and caviar are sent all over Russia. One can buy live trout directly from the pools, or even fish your own, with guaranteed success. A popular Greek restaurant, which lies just next to the farm, allows you to discover the taste of truly fresh trout dishes. If you follow the Sochi River north you will eventually reach the trail to the Arehavsky Waterfalls. Small rapids of a tributary lead to a 100ft waterfall. Many people eat at the picnic grounds there and swim in the river below. The location is remote and picturesque.
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